A great time was had by all. Nobody died (although there was one crash resulting in a broken leg). My bike ran fantastic but I did experience one issue that may or may not be something akin to vapor lock. Saw some old friends, made some new friends, ate a lot of good food, imbibed a few adult beverage, and just generally had a lot of fun. This will probably be the last trip for the Harley saddlebags and the orange tin, so I took a few more pictures than normal.
Wednesday (map, 415mi): Breakfast at the Avon Cafe. Late lunch at Jax Cafe in Eureka. Best burgers around. Hopefully this will be more than a log of where and what I ate. While gassing up in Seeley Lake I met the caretaker of said lake who fell in love with the bike. Happens all the time (still waiting for a cute gal to fall in love with it–so far it’s only wrinkled old geezers). Made it to Radium Hot Springs around 6:30 and stayed at the Gables Motel (yay wifi). Talked with a dude there who was on Holiday from Saskatchewan and used to race Kawasaki sport bikes. Interesting cat but I couldn’t get a word in edgewise. Was later reminded just how different Canadian TV can be. Some of it is like Bizzaro-world versions of our shows. Some of it is just completely “off.”
Thursday (map, 312mi): The next morning I found out they call it “back bacon” in Canada, not “Canadian Bacon.” Just 6 miles north of Golden my bike started running poorly. It wasn’t quite like a vacuum leak (though I replaced the vacuum caps anyway) and it wasn’t quite like running on one cylinder. After a little while it “cleared up” and I continued on. Glacier National Park is quite stunning (see gallery). When John and I passed through there in 2004 it was rainy and miserable and we had no idea how scenic it was. On the way down to Revelstoke had to wait to pass through single lane traffic due to a toppled over semi-truck trailer. As we got moving again three friggin jackholes on Harleys skipped the queue up to where I was and one of them insisted on running right next to me through the accident traffic. You just don’t pull that shit with someone you don’t know. Once we were in the clear I let them take off ahead of me. Gassed up in Revelstoke and headed for the Shelter Bay Ferry about a half-hour south. Due, I gather, mostly to the Nakusp Music Festival the line for the ferry was a few miles long and they only had one ferry running. Waited in line for over 3 hours with two blokes from Alberta (see gallery). We chatted about the usual stuff, bikes, differences between the provinces and between our two countries. Other than the heat, and seriously impacting my schedule, it was a pleasant enough time. South of the ferry I had that vapor lock type of issue again for a few miles, but again, it cleared up. At the time I was thinking it was a batch of bad gas. Luckily the start of the Nakusp Music Festival was still a day away so passing through there was easy and there were no cops on the road yet. Didn’t need a repeat of last year’s speeding ticket (although it appears that one wasn’t enough for ReneLouis and he had to have one for his new Moto Guzzi Norge). The rest of the day was uneventful and I arrived in Nelson around 7:30 that evening.
Friday: There were a couple groups rides I could have gone on, but I didn’t sleep well and slept in. Had a nice breakfast at the Red Fish cafe and hit the road about 11am for the Balfour Ferry with the intent of doing the Creston-Salmo loop (Google map), 154 miles. Ran into one of the groups in Creston, ReneLouis, Brad, Rocket Bob and Rich, who were setting up the Poker Run for Saturday and sat with them while they had lunch. They were doing the same loop, but counter-clockwise. I continued my clockwise loop alone without incident, well, that is until I was parking my bike back at the Grand Hotel. Every few years I have the same humbling experience, but this time it was with an extra dose of humiliation, to remind me I’m not an expert at this whole motorcycle thing. I forgot to put my kickstand down and almost dropped my bike on Keith’s new Triumph Trophy. Naturally, this was in front of a parking lot full of rally attendees. But this was good because I needed their help. I crushed my left thumb between my handebars and Keith’s bike, saving it from a nasty scratch. But that meant I couldn’t pick the bike up on my own, since I couldn’t get a grip on it with my left hand. ::sigh:: No harm, no foul, though my thumb is still sore.
Saturday: Met up with friends for breakfast once again at the Red Fish Cafe. There are plenty of other places to eat in Nelson, and they’re all good, but Red Fish is awesome. There was a group consensus to bail on the poker run and instead we did the Kaslo-New Denver loop (Google map), 169mi. The top of the pass between those two towns is just gorgeous (see gallery). Our initial party was Keith, Marty, Zdenko, Karen and Brent, with John following in the chase truck. Rocket Bob followed us up to Kaslo but went back to Nelson. We had planned on lunch in Nakusp but because SOMEBODY had to stop in Kaslo for ice cream a mere hour after breakfast, that threw us off. Just as well as the cops were out again around Nakusp and I hate doing the speed limit. As mentioned above, ReneLouis did go to Nakusp and did get nailed for another ticket. He caught up with us in New Denver as we were finishing up lunch. I also took a few shots of a couple vintage bikes on a trailer there at the Valhalla Inn, an Ariel square four and what appears to be a WWII era Norton. At lunch we were also joined by a Triumph Thruxton rider from Alberta named Ritchie (?) who accompanied us back to Nelson. What followed was some of the best riding of my life. Keith lead the way on his (now award winning) 2003 Cardinal Red America, followed by ReneLouis on his new Moto Guzzi, then me, then the Thruxton. The four of us blazed a trail through the twisties, occasionally stopping to allow the rest of the party to catch up. My bike was just singing with the bark of the specialty spares exhaust bouncing off the cliff walls and the concrete barriers separating the road from the lake below, as well as harmonizing with the exhaust notes of the other riders in my group as our RPMs rose and fell together. It was…well, as close to a Zen state as I’ve ever been. If my depiction sounds a lot like sex, well, it was the next best thing to sex and lasted a whole lot longer. That evening at the banquet the food was good as usual. Rocket Bob got the old fart award, and Keith got the Best Cruiser award. He was positively beaming. And there was a nice moment when they recognized John for returning after his crash last year.
Sunday (map), 436mi: Got a very late start, about 11am MST, after our customary Sunday morning breakfast at the Hume Hotel. They have one of the best eggs benedicts anywhere. With the goodbyes said and my stuff loaded in John’s truck, I blasted over the Creston-Salmo pass, stopping only for a photo opp at the top (see gallery) and at the border so John could catch up and I could get my passport out of the back of his truck. Interestingly both border guards, going each way, wondered how I got the license plate “BOLLOX.” They give the bureaucrats at the Montana DMV (or the old biddies who might complain) too much credit for knowing British slang/profanity. John and I met up with Del in Bonner’s Ferry, ID, for some coffee and pie. Yeah, another delay but I hadn’t seen Del in years. Unfortunately his lovely bride Janet couldn’t or wouldn’t join us (having just returned from a camping trip and looking horrible or somesuch nonsense), but he brought her lovely Bonneville SE to show off. Just outside Bonners Ferry my bike started “doing it” again. I nursed it along at about 50mph for about 15 miles before it just exploded in wild acceleration again. Soon I will be tapping the hivemind at BonnevilleAmerica.com to figure that out. After a snack at the Little Bear Cafe in Thompson Falls I transfered my luggage from John’s truck to my bike and headed for home. I probably should’ve stopped there in T-Falls or in Missoula for the night, but I continued on in the dark, watching for critters but ultimately making it home around 10:40 without incident.
Total Miles: 1486. Number of Days: 5. Average Miles per day: 297.2.
UPDATE: Zdenko’s Gallery on Flickr (don’t critique–he’s very sensitive), Rocket Bob’s Gallery on Facebook (must be his blue period), Keith’s Gallery on Photobucket.